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peen0_0
Level 3 Member
Victoria
224 Posts |
 Posted - 20 Apr 2009 : 10:31:47 AM
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I need help pleeeeease! The new motor for the pig is coming along nicely,a mild and well mannered 836, BUT! I need a suggestion on how to compress the rings to get the barrels on? Had a suggestion of a hose clamp, but tightening that stops the pistons from moving up into the bores. I have no chamfer left at the base of the barrels after the re bore, and insufficient material left to have this done.
The "little" 750 is going into retirement, maybe to be reborn at a later stage in a bigger capacity?
Cheers, Peen (Tony) Sidecar 20, The Pink Pig.
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john feakes
Advanced Member
Victoria
791 Posts |
Posted - 20 Apr 2009 : 1:36:41 PM
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Tony, I have managed to do this by squeezing the rings with my fingers and have also done it with a ring compressor. Someone like Supercheap should have compressors.
The key is in not tightening the thing so much that it grips the piston. A good smear of oil and a rubber mallet and with luck they will slip in. But be gentle with it or you could bugger up the rings.
Perhaps someone has a better suggestion?????
Cheers, John
Oh, lots of swearing helps too. |
125 RIDERS' ALLIANCE
A wise person simplifies the complicated, a fool complicates the simple. |
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peen0_0
Level 3 Member
Victoria
224 Posts |
Posted - 20 Apr 2009 : 7:56:04 PM
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Thanks John. I'll give the smaller ring compressor a go first. Just discovered also that I have to swap the upper crank housing. I've inadvertently used a miss matched pair, and have some serious stiffness in the crank rotation. Easier than a line bore though, bugger!!
Cheers, Tony. |
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john feakes
Advanced Member
Victoria
791 Posts |
Posted - 21 Apr 2009 : 08:33:29 AM
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One step forward, three steps backward.
That's normal with bikes isn't it?
It is for me anyway.
Good luck, John |
125 RIDERS' ALLIANCE
A wise person simplifies the complicated, a fool complicates the simple. |
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peen0_0
Level 3 Member
Victoria
224 Posts |
Posted - 17 May 2009 : 5:30:32 PM
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Success!! Thanks for the advice given by those of you who responded (here and by phone). We ended up using a small ring compressor. Removed the pistons from the rods, and also removed the gudgeon pins, but left one circlip in place. Compressed the rings, drove the pistons into the barrels and allowed just enough of the skirt to protrude at the bottom of the barrels, to allow us to align the rods and drive the gudgeons home. It's fiddly, and you have to keep the pistons within the barrels enough so that the rings don't come clear, but it works. Head is now on and all torqued up. I'll re check the tension in a day or two to see if these"new high strength" case studs stretch or not? Hopefully, fingers crossed, the motor will be in for Winton????????? Hmmmmm, how do we run it in before hand???????????????
Cheers, Buck and Peen. |
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john
Forum Moderator
Victoria
3130 Posts |
Posted - 18 May 2009 : 12:54:05 PM
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Did you use the 900 big end bolts also?
We use a copper head gasket with rings set in to save the cost of the head gasket each time. |
John Daley Sidecar #68
' there are those who do, those who dont do and those who undo. We must lampoon the latter." |
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peen0_0
Level 3 Member
Victoria
224 Posts |
Posted - 18 May 2009 : 2:21:07 PM
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No John, but we did get new, ultra high tensile big end bolts made up to fit. I've also gone with the copper head gasket. A bit expensive to start with, but it will pay for itself given that it can be re-used. We've also replaced the head bolts, i.e. those that hold the O/head gear down, with high tensile studs. I've helicoiled all of the threads, and with the studs we shouldn't have any more problems with stripped 40 year old threads(but don't tell anyone).
Cheers, Tony. |
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